CHASSIS LEGS
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Note that the chassis legs are the standard vintage 1/2" long. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ROOM!
Some guitars come stock with short-legged chassis, but there is usually plenty of room.
Almost ALL boutique pickup makers use these chassis.

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DC RESISTANCES
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The specs are all approximations, as WCR has found that exact number of winds are far more important
than exact DC resistances.Even then, they are almost always within + or - .2k. Resistances will vary
with different meters, room temperatures, etc.

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Wire options
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4 CONDUCTOR + GROUND COLOR CODE
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Bridge Pickup: RED Mark on back of chassis.
Black (start)and Red (finish) are the Screw Bobbin
Green (start) and White (finish) are the Slug Bobbin

Neck Pickup: BLUE mark on back of chassis.
Black (start) and Red (finish) are the Screw Bobbin
Green (start( and White (finish) are the Slug Bobbin

For normal humbucking operation, Red and White are connected to each other,
Black is hot, Green and Twisted Ground are both Ground.

To reverse middle-position polarity, flip the magnet in the Bridge (or Neck)
Pickup from neck-to-bridge, NOT end-for-end. Just SLIGHTLY loosen the 4 little
brass screws on the bottom of the chassis 1/2 turn, and slide the magnet
out the only end it CAN come out.. Roll the mag neck-to-bridge,
slide back in, and re-tighten the screws.

To split, the Red and White connection should be grounded by the switch you
are using for splitting purposes.

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2 CONDUCTOR + GROUND COLOR CODE
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Red is Hot, Black and Bare Twisted are Ground.
Polarity can be changed by swapping the Red and Black, but the Bare Twisted must ALWAYS be grounded.
This cable allows you to use a push-pull switch for either reversing , or even running the 2 pickups
in either parallel, OR series.



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MAGNET SWAP
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SLIGHTLY loosen the 4 screws on the bottom of the pickup ½ turn each,
slide the mag out, slide the new one in, paying attention to polarities,
center it, and re-tighten the screws.

If the original magnet is not sliding out easily, slightly twist the pickup.
You will maybe hear a little "crackle" as the 2 glue spots snap. You do NOT have to re-glue.

Polarity Change

SLIGHTLY loosen the 4 screws on the bottom of the pickup ½ turn each,
slide the mag out and roll it from neck-to-bridge, or vice-versa. Do NOT flip end-to-end,
or there will be no change. Slide it back in, center, re-tighten the brass screws, and you’re done.
Normally the "N" on the magnet faces the screws. To reverse that, have the "N" face the slugs.
If the original magnet is not sliding out easily, slightly twist the pickup.
You will maybe hear a little "crackle" as the 2 glue spots snap. You do NOT have to re-glue.
If putting the same mag back in, scrape the glue off. Easy to do with any knife, razor, etc.

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COVER INSTALL
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PRS INFO
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An issue with a PRS is usually the neck pickup cavity being too shallow, and the bucker has to straddle the neck. In that case, its mostly the pole-piece screws being too long, and if you tell us it is for a PRS,
we will also send along 6-12 "short" pole-piece screws.  The stock height-adjustments screws on a PRS generally are fatter than vintage stock, and vintage stock screws are also too long. So, just install the pickup(s) into the mounting ring, lower it so the top of the pickup is as low as you want it to be (usually about flush with the top of the ring) and snip off any adjustement screw thats sticking out the botton.
Here is a pic of how to wire to a rotary switch. Also, one of the mags will have to be flipped if you are using the rotary. Either by you or us, it is VERY easy to do in any case.
(when the pickup is uncovered)


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POTS & CAPS (WCR Wiring kits)
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SR INSTALL
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ATTENTION ! You may want to do any possible drilling of the base-plates,while the pickups
are still taped to the cardboard. It will help hold everything still and steady. See #7

1.Remove pickguard, disconnecting the bridge ground in the back of the guitar, and the wires
from the guitar cord jack.
2.Remove the 3 pickups, taking note of where each one is connected to the switch.
3.Support the pickguard, face down. A couple of books work well, but whatever is comfortable to you,
use it. Put the supports on the out-side edges.
4.Drop your covers into their slots.
5.Remove the SR Set from the packaging. A razor blade or something like it would be best.
6.Drop the assembly into the covers, and tape 2 of them in place. This will save you from going
nuts when the two pickups you are not working on try to fall out of the guard!
7. Install the springs and screws in the pickups, discarding the tape as you go along.
If the holes are too small for your screws, CAREFULLY drill them out so that they are SLIGHTLY
smaller the your screws, and they will then tap their own way in to the relatively soft bobbin material.
8.The pickups all have a pigtail , and each pigtail has 3 wires in them: RED, BLACK, and a bare, twisted GROUND.
Each pickup is also color-coded: Red=Bridge, Green= Middle PU, and Blue=Neck.
9. Solder all red wires to the appropriate connection on the switch, and solder ALL OTHER WIRES TO GROUND.
They are not trimmed to size, that’s YOUR job!;) They are merely stripped for test purposes.
10. Re-assemble the guitar, and make sure to re-connect the guitar cord jack, and bridge ground.
11. ROCK !!!!!!

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